So Spring is finally showing signs of approaching, and with mid-March on the horizon, that means (for me) that it is time to start breeding rabbits for our fair. Should be a simple affair, right? After all rabbits ovulate "on-demand" and, well, they're rabbits.
Breeding rabbits is not rocket science. Check the doe's vent and if it is purplish in hue, place her in the buck's cage, (don't blink!) and in less than a minute, the deed should be done. You can choose to leave them together for a few minutes - or a few more fall offs - or bring the doe back to her cage and re-breed again in 8 hours. I always breed twice because the doe may urinate, rendering the breeding ineffective. Also, if your back does not fall off after breeding - you cannot accept it as successful.
Here is a quick video of a breeding with a successful fall off:
I've rarely had issues with breeding. When I have, it is usually because it is a first time buck, or because they are too hot, or haven't had enough daylight. My issues have never been long lasting. However, that being said, after joining up with some Facebook meat rabbit groups, I have seen dozens of people complaining that their rabbits won't breed. Following is my advice in overcoming some of these issues.
Some virgin doe’s take to being bred the first time like pros. But, normally, virgin does are much more difficult to breed. If your virgin doe reacts in fear or with difficulty when she is introduced to the buck, attempt a switch of cages. Switch the buck and doe for 24 hours. After a day of being surrounded by all that testosterone, she is bound to be a bit more receptive. Another option is to put the two rabbits together in a play yard for a few minutes at a time, until she becomes comfortable with him. Restraining the doe and allowing the buck to breed her can sometimes result in kits, but the stressful breeding often doesn't take.
Sometimes it is the buck who is shy. Contrary to popular belief, not all bucks are ruthless breeders. If the doe is calm, leave them together and leave their direct line of vision - but stay close enough to intervene if things turn ugly. Allow him to be affectionate with her. If you have an experienced doe, use her first. Chances are, she will take matters into her own hands and teach him the ropes.
Once he's had a time or two with a doe like this, he is likely to be more aggressive next time.
If your rabbits simply will not breed, you need to step back and look at the situation. Are your rabbits fat? Overweight rabbits often cannot/will not breed. Check their feet; are there sore hocks? Sore hocks make it incredibly painful to put weight on their hind feet and breed.
You should be supplementing your rabbit's pellets with oats and black oil sunflower seeds - about a tablespoon of each. These will get your rabbits in excellent condition, both body and fur. These two supplements tend to make rabbits more ready to breed.
While I have never tried this myself - some people swear that if they take their doe on a brief car ride, she is more receptive when she gets home. Maybe this is her version of a date?
As with everything on the homestead; if at first you don't succeed, try it again!
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